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XIX.  BUITTLE CASTLE AND TOWER

by Fra. Robert Adelsohn Bels

in Essay on the Bels-Belle-Balliol Dynasty

and Dalbeattie Matters.

The area surrounding Buittle Tower has been inhabited for centuries, with evidence of occupation dating back to Iron Age farming communities. The Romans may also have used Buittle as a landing place during their campaigns in Scotland, as the River Urr is believed to have been some eight metres higher here than it is today.

In the late twelfth century, a motte-and-bailey castle was erected, probably by either Uchtred of Galloway or Roland of Galloway.

In the thirteenth century, Buittle Castle belonged to Allan, Lord of Galloway. When Allan died in 1234 without a surviving male heir, his lands were divided among his three daughters, Elena (Helen), Christina, and Devorguilla of Galloway. The name Devorguilla (Gaelic Dearbhfhorgaill) is generally interpreted as meaning “true testimony” or “daughter of certainty”; the explanation “of very high lineage” is more poetic than linguistic.

Following the deaths of her elder sisters, Devorguilla, who was married to John Balliol, inherited the lands of Buittle and took up residence there in the 1250s. Once established, she enlarged the castle on an impressive scale by adding a bailey accessed by a drawbridge. Buittle was thus transformed into a formidable stronghold. The surviving circular tower dates from this rebuilding campaign in the mid-thirteenth century and is among the earliest stone keeps in Scotland.

The castle was one of only three in Scotland to possess a paved floor, not paved in the modern sense of the word, but nevertheless provided with a hard surface. As the River Urr was tidal, Buittle was easily accessible from the sea and consequently developed into a prosperous settlement, eventually attaining the status of a burgh.

Devorguilla is best known for establishing Balliol College, Oxford. Her statutes for the college, dated 1282, were drawn up and issued from Buittle. She also had a wooden bridge built over the River Nith at Dumfries, rather than the stone bridge that stands today, the latter dating from the 1430s.

John Balliol became King of Scotland in 1292 and, during his reign, Buittle (then known as Botel) served as one of the principal royal residences and was, in effect, a royal centre of the kingdom. Some historians have even described it as the “capital” of Balliol Scotland. Although the castle was undoubtedly an important royal residence, describing it as the capital of Scotland would be an exaggeration.

Scotland in the thirteenth century had no fixed capital in the modern sense. Royal government was itinerant, with kings moving between several principal centres, including Scone Abbey, Stirling Castle, Edinburgh Castle, Roxburgh Castle, and Buittle.

It is nevertheless true that John Balliol himself frequently resided there. Consequently, the castle occupied a position of exceptional importance within the Balliol lordship and within the kingdom during the years 1292–1296.

Perhaps Devorguilla's most notable creation is Sweetheart Abbey in New Abbey. Completed in 1273 it is here that her late husband's heart is said to be embalmed. It is said that she carried this casket with her, and a place was even set for it at dinner. Once she had eaten, the food on his plate was given to the poor.

Devorguilla is thought to have died in January 1290 at the age of 76 surviving to see her son, also John, become the main claimant to the Scottish throne, although not to witness his subsequent downfall and loss of her lands to the English crown.

John Balliol did not have much chance of delivering a strong government to Scotland, a courageous man assisted by luck may possibly have made something of his position. Unfortunately for Scotland, Balliol was not that man. He did attempt to carry on the work of previous Scottish Kings by summoning parliaments and trying to right lawless areas, but the ambitions of England's Edward I dismissed any attempt of John to establish himself.

Edward made the most of his position of power, he demanded that complaints against Balliol by Scottish subjects be heard at English courts. Balliol understandably objected to this and was immediately threatened with the loss of his Scottish castles.

During this time the Bruce's were acting in their own best interests which did not help. The breaking point came when Edward insisted that he provide military service against France. Balliol refused and eventually after a fierce battle at Dunbar Balliol was forced to surrender and was subjected to the humiliation of having his royal regalia stripped from him. His lands, including Buittle, were placed under English rule.

By the early 14th Century Edward Bruce (Brother of the future King) had fought off the English and recaptured all the castles in south-west Scotland. His main aim being to recapture Buittle, as it was an important target and the gateway to eastern Galloway.

John Balliol was still a key figure here and the Bruce clan did not want him to reclaim the Scottish throne. The siege of Buittle lasted several months under the attack of Edward Bruce and the castle fell to him in February 1313. Although Edward had won, those inside had to wait ten days, enduring starvation, and thirst, until Robert arrived to take the surrender. The castle was subsequently destroyed and raised to the ground.

In 1323 Sir James Douglas was granted the lands of Buittle, a loyal supporter of the Bruces. As one of the most important places in Galloway at the time, having been a Balliol stronghold as well as the seat of the Lords of Galloway, Bruce decided to gift it to Sir James, both as a reward and to quell any Balliol uprising. The Douglases, using stone from the former castle built the tower house which still stands to this day. They continued to own Buittle until the 16th Century when the lands were forfeited to James V, who subsequently granted the lands to the Maxwell family, who remained in possession until the 19zh Century.

The Buittle Tower became the home to Jeffrey and Janet Burn who have restored the tower house to its former 16th century glory, complete with vaulted dining room, chapel and laigh hall in the courtyard.

The Tower is also brought to life by a group of Historical re-enactors who specialise in the period of the Border Reivers, telling the stories of the Clans and Families who controlled the Scottish and English marches for almost 300 years.

Times were harsh in the Debateable Lands and to survive, raiding the lands of others became the only means of survival. Not only did Scots raid the English and the English raid the Scots but they took to raiding each other, especially when some act, real or imagined, sparked off conflict between families which resulted in feuds lasting for generations.

“…Among other lands taken from Dumfries, included the Balliol lands of Buittle, Kenmure and Kirkandrews…”.  Source : Amanda Beam. `